When The Jones Assembly rolled out their new menu last week, it was our first chance to get to know new-ish Executive Chef Connor Underwood. The Houston native started at Jones in April this year, but he spent time learning the ins and outs of the massive operation – restaurant, bar, venue, private event space, social hub, etc. – before getting involved in menu creation, a process that always involves a team approach at Jones, including operating partner Scott Marsh, Chef de Cuisine Patrick Hart, and The Social Order Dining Collective founder Brian Bogert. 

Underwood’s background prepared him to work at The Jones Assembly in ways that he could not have predicted, given that the West Village destination works as much like an event center as a restaurant, depending on the day of the week.

 

“I worked for the Ritz-Carlton group after culinary school, so I’m very comfortable with catering and special events, and I was CdC and Exec Chef at various places, including Milo & Olive for three years in Los Angeles. I went to Torino, Italy, after that, because I had an opportunity to work with a great group: Del Cambio.”

While in Italy, he opened a bakery, which was his first preference in school. He trained in culinary arts in Oahu as part of the University of Hawaii’s program, but his Bachelor’s degree came from the University of Colorado in Boulder. 

“I started in restaurants when I was 13,” Underwood said, “but I was in my early 20s before I realized I wanted to make a career of it. Along the way I switched from pastry to savory out of necessity, and learned I was good at it.”

The tone is confident, and rightly so. He’s not just good at it. The new za’atar chicken dish is the best chicken I’ve had in 2024. Served with caramelized onion and herb raita, it has a depth of flavor that can only be managed by someone who is better than “good at it.” The za’atar blend is a base that he bumped up with his own ingredients, and he describes the dish as “something I was hungry for.” 

Creativity and confidence mark all the new dishes in which Underwood had a hand, and while the chicken was my favorite, it’s hard to imagine the truffled mafaldine won’t be the big hit of the menu. Served with mascarpone, black truffles, duxelles and Parmesan, the dish is a clear indicator that Underwood did not waste his time in Italy.

“I love the scallops dish, too,” Underwood said. “It’s simple, nice, with caramelized parsnip beurre blanc and fondant potatoes, so it’s not overwhelming.” The fondant potatoes are shaped like the scallops, which creates a lovely, symmetrical plating.

Underwood’s family is originally from Tulsa and now live in OKC, so between family and friends, he was familiar with The Jones Assembly before applying for the job. It’s not every spot that asks the executive chef to work the line, but Jones does several shifts per week, and Underwood likes being on the line. 

“Patrick focuses on the day-to-day in the kitchen, and I focus on the big picture with Scott,” Underwood said. “We all work on R&D and development.”

Complicating the role at Jones is the company’s commitment to work with as many local producers as possible, and that includes the bar program. A new chef isn’t just learning how Jones works; he’s learning about the relationships with key producers – grain, produce, meat, mushrooms, fruit, etc. – from all over Oklahoma. It’s a focus that Underwood says appeals to him.

“I think I can divide my chef life into phases,” he said. “When I was young (Ed: he’s only 31 now), it was the energy and heat of the line that I loved, but not I’m fascinated with the business side. I like the numbers. I like the relationships with farmers and ranchers, and I like talking sourcing and sustainability. Somewhere in the middle, I loved the events too. Mostly I’ve been impressed with how efficient the Jones team is in doing all of this at the scale they operate at.” 

It would be a failure of journalistic proportions not to mention a few other things on the new menu. The banoffee cake dessert is a must, as are the pot pie croquettes. I’m happy to report that the cacio e pepe wings remain on the menu, and the Frotinit is back! The latter may be the city’s best espresso martini, but Charles Friedrich’s bar team decided to compete with themselves by creating the Frozen Delight, a coffee drink with frozen espresso granita, and yes, I will be spiking it with rum or tequila at some point this year.