Brunch, With Apologies to the Mimosa
The three most common questions I get as a local food writer are: Where is the best burger? Which is the best restaurant? Who has the best brunch? Today, we’re going to answer number three, because the brunch landscape has shifted dramatically over the past few years, and we’re finally seeing some interesting brunch dishes, as opposed to the old model of avocados, eggs, chorizo, and breads (toast, waffles, pancakes, biscuits) arranged and rearranged like culinary erector sets, all costing between $16 and $24.
Without conducting an exhaustive survey, I can only say that it “seems” like there are fewer places serving brunch, but that may simply be a function of the 70-plus closures the metro suffered last year and not because operators are moving away from a brunch service. And, yes, there are still a slew of bad options out there, and so as usual, we have a list, as well as a suggestion that we all start broadening the definition of brunch, and perhaps tongue-in-cheek and perhaps not, it’s fair to say that brunch that doesn’t begin until 11 a.m. is lunch.
For some, it’s not brunch if there are no mimosas, and I know I’m in the minoritywhen I say mimosas are one of the worst ideas ever. You find a few options: bad orange juice and bad bubbles, good orange juice and bad bubbles…you get the idea. Why would anyone want to drink bad bubbles, or conversely, why would anyone want to adulterate good bubbles? The rising cost of everything has made cheap mimosas a rarity, and if you do find them, caveat emptor in terms of quality. That’s a tangent, though, and all to say that for many no bar means no brunch, but I think that’s a mistake if the goal is the best brunch food. OKC is home to a multitude of Central American, South American, and Mexican concepts that do not have a full bar but do serve phenomenal food. A short list:
Most brunch spots do offer a full bar, but here I’m mainly concerned with where to find the best food, not the best booze, because as a rule, if the food is great, the booze should be too, and, yes, I know there are unfortunate exceptions. And with that, onto the brunch list:
What’s New?
The Crown. Chef Eric Smith’s Western Ave. dinner spot just added brunch, and it’s one of those aforementioned menus with better options, including a pork belly grilled cheese on sourdough, and a steak and egg risotto. The truffle burger is stellar, and the housemade Bloody Mary mix is outstanding.
Press & Plow. Benvenuti’s Chef-owner Anthony Compagni branched out into brunch a while back with the first of these Dutch Baby joints in Norman on Tecumseh. The Edmond location is now open, and Lindsay in Norman will be open soon. The Dutch Babys are the focus for good reason; no one else makes them this well. He also has proper omelets, a Short Belly Burger (blend of pork belly, short ribs, and bacon in the grinder!), and an inexplicably satisfying turkey sandwich.
Riserva Bar + Tapas. Chef James Fox and Provision Concepts collaborated on last year’s Best New Restaurant, and they added brunch in the spring of this year. True to form, it’s like nothing else around the metro, and you can still get muhammara and swordfish during weekend brunch. The merguez-stuffed poblano is the standout, but the chilaquiles come with a fresh anaheim salsa that is very much worth your attention.
What’s Not New But Still Excellent?
Aurora. The new version is almost here, and the new brunch from Chef Jerrod Driskill is ambitious in scope. Early tastes indicate we’re all going to be very happy with the new iteration of this Plaza District favorite. The Savory Lentil & Hummus Bowl is designed for grazers – and you get to feel healthier than the dude who eats the Breakfast Burger (on ciabatta), but he gets Chef’s tomato jam. Yes, they will still have excellent vegetarian and vegan options, as well as full coffee service.
Cafe 501. If there is a more under-appreciated chef in the metro than Chef Joel Wingate, I don’t know who it is. He just makes great food, and along the way he’s an excellent mentor and teacher, and a solid human. Makes enjoying his excellent food that much easier. The Huevos Rancheros are the best in the city, and the grilled cheese is breakfast perfection.
Cafe Kacao. Yes, you’re going to stand in line, but some people don’t mind that for good food, and may I suggest you get out of your rut and try the Cobanero Omelet? The cobanero pepper is a staple of Qʼeqchiʼ culture, so you might as well try one of the most Guatemalan things on the menu, and bonus, it’s got lovely warm heat. The Izabal breakfast is the sleeper.
Frida Southwest. Chef Quinn Carroll, with assists from Chef Rachel Porter, has created one of the most deliciously reliable brunch menus in the city, and the chicken and waffles has a candidate for best fried chicken. If you still haven’t had the cinnamon roll, weep for your wasted life. You can also find excellent vegan and vegetarian options like the tamale trio, which is a must try.
Red Rooster. Donut bread pudding. Tempted to just leave it at that, because what else do you really need to know? Honestly, though, get the pastrami hash or the burger with an egg on it. The house-made sausage is a side, and I don’t care what your doctor says.
Scratch. When in Norman, it’s Scratch. The panzanella avocado toast is the only one I’ve ever thought of fondly again after eating it. Go rustic to start, with fried green tomatoes and deviled eggs. The Cubano is very well done, and the Kale and Brussels salad should teach a class in how to execute the perfect salad.
Stella Modern Italian. It doesn’t matter that they’re between chefs; brunch has always been solid, and the addition of Eggs in Purgatory makes me less sad that another popular spot 86ed it years ago. Day to day, the pork chop is the best thing on the menu, but for now, the summer corn bisque is the winner, and thanks to Chef Josh Valentine for that dish!
Great article by Greg Horton. Thank you.
Thank you!
Love this list! I’ve had a few of these places but definitely trying the others. I’m always looking at what you’re eating, lol!
Thank you. I appreciate that!