Episode 204 of the OKC Underground podcast features Greg Gawey, owner of Jamil’s Steakhouse. Jamil’s is an institution in the the way that only restaurants that have survived more than 50 years can be, which is to say, the experience of it is baked into the great grandkids of some of the original guests just as it is in every generation through the decades. Jamil’s is celebrating their 60th anniversary, enough years to serve five generations of Oklahomans. 

Jamil’s is also one of a handful of Lebanese steakhouses, including their sister spot of the same name in Tulsa, that remain in Oklahoma. In the 1970s through the 1990s, dozens of Lebanese steakhouses existed in multiple states, distinguished by the hummus, tabouli, and cabbage rolls served alongside steak, chops, ribs, and smoked bologna. Gawey’s uncle Jim Elias opened Jamil’s in 1964, and 12 years later, just as Gawey was considering law school, his uncle asked him to take over. His cousin still runs the Tulsa location, also handed off by Elias. 

Lunchtime at Jamil’s is usually dominated by tables of legislators and lobbyists when the legislature is in session. Dinner is a much more date night vibe. Whichever experience you choose, the food and service are stellar, and the space itself is a time capsule of and temple to Okie culture – especially pop culture – not notably in the form of paintings of famous Okies. Everything in the building has a story, and if you catch Gawey out of the kitchen, he’ll happily tell you a few. 

While you’re listening, eat the best smoked bologna sandwich (with pimento cheese) in OKC. Coach Switzer is a big fan of the cabbage rolls. He’s one of a large group who come to Jamil’s because of the cabbage rolls. I go for the stories, the bologna, pimento cheese, steak fries at lunch, and the city’s best catfish. In the episode, Gawey talks about his celebration of 60 years of Jamil’s, and how that benefits you, especially if you’ve been looking for an excuse to go for the first time. If you’re a regular, you likely already know, and I hope you’ve taken advantage of the offer. 

I wrote a story about a locally famous Lebanese business owner several years ago, and while doing research, I learned that the first Lebanese immigrants came to “Oklahoma” in the 1880s, setting up mercantiles in eastern Oklahoma. They became deeply intertwined with the hospitality industry, especially alcohol distribution and restaurant operations. Lebanese food is Oklahoma food. Because we opened the borders to people of every kind during the Land Run, our food is an amalgamation of ethnic deliciousness of dozens of varieties, and that’s how you end up eating hummus and tabouli at a steak house, and how I ended up eating fried chicken at a Lebanese family’s Sunday supper, alongside kibbeh, hummus, pita, and cabbage rolls.